[MM-MALTS-L] Pilgrimage to Islay

[Davin de Kergommeaux]

Hi George,
I second Harry on the little pub in Portnahaven, and Lex on the Oa.  Also
I'd add Kildalton Cross (near Ardbeg).  I quite enjoyed the short ferry trip
across to Jura and had toast for breakfast at the hotel across the street
while waiting for the distillery to open.  Islay roads are narrow, so be
prepared to use the little pull-offs to let others pass.  Have you read
Andrew Jefford's book, Peat, Smoke and Spirit?  It would really get you in
the right frame of mind for a visit to Islay.  As a fellow Canadian, I
always agonize over what malts to bring home.  Customs almost always lets
two or even three bottles in free and I do my shopping at World of Whiskies
in London Heathrow airport.  Great selection, acceptable prices (great
prices by Canadian standards).

Have a great trip!

Davin

On Thu, Apr 10, 2008 at 10:28 AM, Harry Pulley <harry.pulley at gmail.com>
wrote:

> >From my trip the Port Charlotte Hotel was definitely the best
> restaurant.  Went there a few times.  The Loch Gruinart oysters are divine
> as is the whole baked sea bream.  The lamb was very good too.  Whisky
> selection is excellent.  Other nice pubs out and about are the Lochside in
> Bowmore and the little pub right on the shore in Portnahaven which has a
> nice selection of Islay brewed beers and ales in addition to a good malt
> selection and some decent food.
>
> At Ardbeg you can do better for 200 quid.  I think the Lord of the Isles
> is way overpriced, even at 150 though old Ardbeg is becoming very dear
> indeed.  Personally I'd suggest you get others not available in Canada like
> Airigh Nam Beist, Almost There, Still Young and if you're a member of the
> committee then check your mailbox as I got something in the mail
> yesterday...  If you aren't a committee member then sign up before you go!
> The clootie dumpling is a must have and is great 'stomach lining' for a day
> of drams to follow.  Great tour at Ardbeg, no need to book ahead I think
> just mention it in the shop.
>
> Bruichladdich distillery has TONs of bottling you can't get here and you
> can bottle your own valinch too which is kind of fun.  Great tour at
> Bruichladdich too, book ahead.
>
> Laphroaig's tour wasn't bad as they have maltings but there isn't much in
> the gift shop though with only QC in Canada now I suppose a dram of 10yo or
> 15yo isn't bad.  Too bad they stopped printing new members' registers years
> ago as it was fun for older members to find themself in the register.  The
> stillroom is grand.
>
> Was nice to see Bunnahabhain though they were putting a new boiler in so
> no tours at the time.  I didn't get into Bowmore, Kilchman, Caol Ila or
> Lagavulin (always next time).
>
> Just walking around Port Ellen was a lot of fun.  A few pubs and
> restaurants but be warned that pretty much everything but the pubs are
> closed very early so there is much else but pubs or walks to do in the
> evening.  You can walk out to the Oa but the people are so friendly they'll
> be offering you rides all the time!
>
> There are several ruins around so lots of non-whisky stuff to see.  The
> sheep and cattle all about are fun to see.  Wonderful landscapes.  Lots of
> sea and shorebirds, seals.  It is a beautiful place.  I had marvelous
> weather for my trip, some wicked rain on my first day but sunny otherwise --
> I hope your luck is as good.
>
> I had a great time.  You'll love it!  I want to go back this year and hope
> I can swing it.
>
> Harry
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